you need to sit for a long time with the book, give it space in your head to stretch. i would even recommend starting at the back of the book, and moving backward, for thats where his 'easiest' work is. however difficult the essays seem however, at every turn they pay off. my friend said he recently booked himself into the luxor hotel in las vegas just because he wanted to see this place that d'agata wrote about.
he's got a knck for combining research, witt, and empathy that makes the voice in this book something truly extra-ordinary.